Thursday, 12 May 2022

Drops Aredhel Jacket

 I've just finished another jacket! 

 I had been wearing my hooded Cable yoke sweater a lot so decided to make another hooded jacket.  I decided on the lovely Drops Aredhel pattern which I already had in my favourites.   


This was a surprisingly quick make, for me anyway.  I started at the beginning of January and probably finished it at the end of March.  By 8 April 2022, I had sewn on the buttons and was waiting for a chance to photograph it before wearing it.                       
I used Drops Andes Super Bulky Yarm in twilight blue, a mix of 65% wool, 35% alpaca                       
I used a 7 mm needle.   In the pattern they said to use a larger needle (8mm) for the body and smaller for the garter edging.  The pattern for my Cable yoke sweater said the same but I ended up using the smaller needle for everything.  I have decided to do the same here and used a 7mm needle throughout.                   

I converted this to knit in one piece rather than individual pieces.  This was relatively easy to do.  There are 2 vents at the side and the pattern is knit bottom up.  I had to knit the bottom 3 pieces separately up to the top of the vent (around 7 inches)  and then join to knit the body in one piece from there.   The edging bands are knitted all at the same time (no picking up stitches to knit the bands after).   

The jacket has a nice skirt coat style.  The bottom half is stockinette.  There are gentle decreases to just above the waist where this is a nice garter stitch pattern.  After the waist garter stitch pattern,  the upper fronts and back are knit in purl stich.  All the edging bands are knit in garter stitch throughout.   The garter stitch pattern at the waist is also repeated just above the sleeve cuffs. 

As I was knitting in one piece, I picked up stitches at the armholes and knit the sleeves down (rather than knitting flat as in the pattern).

The hood is wonderful and easy to knit.  It has a nice cute shape as well, like a little elf.  There is also a nice little pattern at the top centre join as well (you can't really see this on my photos as the pattern is on the top of my head when the hood is up).  I used kitchener stitch to join the top of the hood, the first time I have used that method.

This is the first time doing the dropped shoulder style.   I am used to casting on stitches for the under arm (or casting off the under arm stitches or putting them on hold depending which way you are knitting).  Anyway, you don't need to do this for dropped shoulders, and I think the pattern had the equivalent of 1 to 2 under arm stitches.  I was always wary of the dropped shoulder style thinking it would look baggy and be uncomfortable.  This was not the case at all.  The dropped shoulder style gives a nice clean look at the front and is not uncomfortable in the least.   The sleeves are just the right fit, on the slim side how I like them.

I added a third buttonhole, instead of two as in the pattern.  (I don't understand why they only put 2 buttonholes on the pattern).  

I found some nice large buttons in my collection which matches this project perfectly.   I was going to use some spare wooden toggles I have but the round buttons give this a nice vintage feel.

I am delighted with the jacket.  I think it is one of the best things I have made.  Such a simple but lovely pattern.

Happy knitting!

Monday, 27 September 2021

Cable Yoke Jacket

This is the fabulous Cable Yoke Jacket from Kyoko Nakayoshi

I started this on 8 May 2021 and used Cascade yarn Eco plus in purple colourway 3121.  It is a bulky weight yarn.  The pattern asked you to knit the yoke in size 6 mm needles and the rest in 5.5 mm.  I swatched the yoke in both and I preferred the look of 5.5 mm swatch so I knitted everything in that size needle.  I knitted this in the size 14-16.   I would normally do an 18 but I read notes from others on Ravelry that said it comes out big so I went a bit smaller, on top of using the smaller needle for the yoke.

This was a departure from my usual little cropped sweater or cardigan.  I thought the yoke would be a challenge along with the hood.  It was actually very straightforward to knit once you figured out what was going on.   The yoke is knit first in a long strip, like a scarf.  It had an interesting short row construction.  So there were a couple of purl stitches between each of the 3 cable panels and there were short row turns at each of those points.  The short rows had the effect of making the top of the yoke shorter than the lower edge.  Very interesting construction and this could be used for other projects.

After the yoke you pick up stitches across the long lower edge and then knit down in stockinette, dividing at the sleeves.  It was shortly after this point that I decided to do the hood and put the body on hold.

The hood too was an interesting construction.   You pick up stitches across the neckline and reduce slightly with decreases and then a couple of inches of ribbing.  The back of the hood is knit up after increasing slightly.  I did it longer than the pattern said for my size as I wanted my hood to be big and floppy and not snug.  

The centre back portion of the hood was 25 stitches with a slipped stitch on either side.    The stitiches either side of the 25 stitches are the side stitches.  What you do is work 52 stitches (for the size I did) and then turn.   You slip the first stitch, work 25 stitches , and then decease a stitch and turn.  You then just keep repeating.  So you are only working the centre stiches after the first 52 stitches.  You keep slipping the first stitch, and the side stitches outisde of the 25 centre stitches are gradually being eroded with the decreases. 

 You don't have to keep counting the 25 stiches, it is easy to see where you work up to.  The turn creates a gap between the 2 stitches.  The decrease is worked using the stitches on either side of the gap.  I was able to do read while I was doing this.  The trouble was I must have missed out a decrease along the way as my side stitches on one side ran out and I still had 2 to work on the other side.  I used a couple of german short rows to work back and forth to work the final 2 decreases on the other side. 

I then continued knitting the body to my required length (I could have made it an inch or two longer but never mind).   You then do a garter stitch edging around the entire jacket, taking in the hood, front edges and the hem.  The two front corners have an interesting mitred edge that I hadn't done before.  It didn't occur to me that you would need to increase at each of the corners for the fabric to turn around the corner.  The increases used in the pattern were yarnovers which confused me even more as I had only previously used yarnovers in lace to create holes in the fabric.   After asking a question on Ravelry the penny dropped that these were increases.  Yarnovers that are purled on the other side do not create a hole.  Apparently yarnovers produce a stretchier result than an M1 increase which may be why it was used here. 

The buttonholes were a bit of a challenge.  I used my usual one row buttonhole but it created a hole on the right side of the buttonhole which I had never had before.  I thought I must have done them wrong so I ripped back down into the buttonhole (to avoid me undoing 600 stitches plus of garter edging) to re-do the buttonholes.  The gap still appeared.  I figured that it must be the garter stitch fabric which emphasises the hole.  I just carried on and worked the yarn in at the end to close up the gaps. Finally I then completed the sleeves with a garter edges to my desired length.

I love the wooden toggles - so cute!  I did my usual trick of re-inforcing the edges with interfacing and lining.  I usually just do the centre front button bands but for this one I did all the way around the edging, taking in the hood and the hem.  This has provided a nice structure to the jacket.   I also plan to do the same on the sleeves at some point, and to add some lining to the sleeves to make it easier to slip on over long sleeved tops.  I will do that in longer time though - no rush (if I do it at all - ha ha).

We have had unusually hot weather in the UK in late September so today marked the first time I wore the jacket out.  It was a perfect temperature for the jacket.  We stopped and took some photos of it when we came back from the supermarket.

I would thoroughly recommend this pattern.  Don't be put off by thinking it is complicated.   I had this in my Ravelry favourites for years and I decided to bite the bullet and do something different.  It has certainly paid off and I will enjoy wearing this jacket.

At the moment I am knitting my partner another sweater but this has been interrupted by me knitting little mini Christmas sweater decorations.  This has also introduced me to knitting intarsia in the round which is another thing I have never done before.  I think I have just about picked up the technique.  I am toying with the idea of knitting an intarsia motif on a sweater for my next project.

Happy knitting and sewing until next time.

Tuesday, 9 June 2020

Lapped zipper with lining tutorial

I originally posted this tutorial on 31 December 2019 but I noticed recently that it was missing from the blog so I am writing it again.

When making my Simplicity 2451 skirt, view C, I decided to tackle a lapped zipper for the first time.  As I was lining the skirt I wanted to figure out how to cleanly attach the lining.  With a lot of help from Kathleen Fansella's lapped zipper and facing tutorial and Nancy Zieman's lapped zipper tutorial, I managed to figure this out.  When creating a sample I made a tutorial.  Here is the final sample:

Front view

Back view
Pretty nifty huh?  I finished the skirt (in black cord) some time ago and I love it.   I am wearing it as we speak as the weather in the UK has turned a bit chilly. 

Anyway, the tutorial can be found here on my Dropbox storage.   Enjoy!

Sunday, 8 March 2015

Berry Marion

I am a bit behind with posting my finished hand knits. I have finished a jumper and a cardigan in 2014 yet to be blogged. Here is my most recently finished hand knit. I started it on 1 January 2015 and finished on 7 March 2015.

This is the Marion cardigan from Untangling Knots. I absolutely love it! There is something about cardigans that makes them extra special. Maybe it's because they are more fiddly to make, with the button bands, buttonholes and the neckline decreases. Maybe it's because you're getting two to three looks for the price of one by wearing it buttoned, unbuttoned, half buttoned etc.

I've always loved the Marion. The cables give a relaxed but dressed feel. This garment marks my first attempt at altering a pattern to suit my measurements. I'm not talking about adding a few rows here and there. I'm talking shoulders, armhole depth, neckline, bust, the lot.

This wasn't meant to be my first project in custom fitting. I wanted to knit the Marion from the pattern but the more I looked at others' projects I could see there was divided opinion. Everyone loves the pattern but the results on fit can differ. For some the shoulders fall down the arms, and the cardigan appears big. For others the fit looks perfect.

I did a few calculations and I felt that Andi had not taken into account the width of the button band around the neck and body when doing the shoulder and waist circumference in her schematic. I did raise this with Andi but she said you have to allow for the cables compressing the fabric. Anyway I decided to bite the bullet and do a total re-write to make the pattern fit my measurements. (As you do … I don't do things by halves when I get going).

It took a bit of extra time as for each section I had to think what the pattern said, work out the proportions, and then convert it to my gauge and measurements. The other benefit of doing this is that you can adapt the pattern to suit your own swatch. Endless swatching on different size needles to try and match the designer's gauge does not appeal to me.


I am delighted with the cardigan and my first foray into custom fitting. I am particularly pleased with the fit at the shoulders and the armholes. I've been listening to podcasts with Amy Herzog talking about her popular Custom Fit software. She has passed on some very useful tips, like the importance of the gauge and getting the fit at the shoulders right based on the high bust measurement.

I don't necessarily agree with everything Amy had to say. For example she advises that seamed hand knits are preferable to seamless because the seams add structure and it is easier to custom fit individual pieces.

I have no problem with lack of structure on any of my hand knits (which have all been seamless). Granted I have only made relatively small cropped sweaters and Amy may be right for larger projects such as men's sweaters or an Aran jacket.

I can't see that altering single pieces is easier than altering a seamless garment. For example, when calculating the waist decrease section of the body on the Marion I used my waist circumference minus the width of the button bands and then inserted the waist decreases at either side of the half way points. When working out the flat portions of the Marion, such as the fronts and back before they are joined in the round, you can work these out individually as Amy does. For example I worked out my shoulder to shoulder measurement for my back and deducted that from 50% of my high bust measurement to get the amount I need to increase widthwise for the armhole shaping.
I can see where she is coming from as you can focus on one piece at a time and this may make the knitting time seem shorter. However I do not like the idea of not being able to try on a garment as you go.

Making a seamed garment must also add to to knitting time because you have to take a few hours at the end to seam it all together. (It would probably be more like a few days for me!) Maybe this extra time is off-set by the fiddly parts of seamless knitting such as picking up the stitches for the sleeves.

Amy is selling the Custom Fit software which I understand works out a flat pattern for your measurements, based on a seamed garment. Having the software work it all out is undoubtedly a benefit. However it is possible to do it yourself with a lot of help from Openoffice spreadsheet calculations and a calculator.

I am now making my second custom made sweater, this time adapting the Chuck pattern to suit me. I am hooked for now. Maybe I am making a rod for my own back with all this extra work but I am enjoying it.

I set out below some further details about the construction of this cardigan.


Knit Picks Wool of the Andes, Hollyberry colourway,
100% Peruvian Highland Wool
Worsted weight 


My blocked gauge on 5.5 mm needle was 8.5 stitches x 11.5 rows (4 x 4 inches). For all my converting I used the 1 inch equivalent of my swatch: 4.25 stitches x 5.75 rows.


I went with zero ease when converting the sweater to my measurements. If I make this again I would make the arms a bit snugger by having maybe 0.5 inches of negative ease in the upper arms and having it a bit more fitted on my lower arms.

Shoulder Shaping

The Marion pattern appears to only have short row shoulder shaping at the back of the garment and not the fronts. I changed the short row shaping to have it on both. I also changed the shoulder shaping to the method in my Obladi sweater pattern (by Lyrical Knits – yet to be blogged). This leaves a nice back neck edge slope as well as a shoulder slope.

When working out my shoulder stitches I added 1 stitch on each side to allow for the fact that they will be lost in the armhole and neckband seams when picking up stitches later. My shoulder slope was one inch, so the cardigan is one inch higher at the neck edge of the shoulder than at the arm edge. If I were to do the pattern again I would do the front portion of the shoulder shaping in reverse stocking stitch to match the reverse stocking stitch in the cable pattern.

Cable pattern

They are not enjoyable to knit. They pull in where the cable twists appear. I did notice on the pattern that you increase by 4 stitches on the front shoulders so this seems to accommodate for the pulling in you get. The cardigan cables look a bit of a mess when it is a work in progress but bear with it. Once the button bands are knitted and you get that extra width the cables then pop out. They come into their own once they are blocked.

How I did the conversion to my measurements

I started off by taking all my key measurements:
  • Waist
  • Full bust
  • High bust (or just under the arm pits)
  • Armhole depth (from shoulder to high bust level) (from end of shoulder)
  • Armhole depth (from the neck edge of the shoulder to the high bust level)
  • Shoulder to full bust
  • Full bust to waist
  • Shoulder to waist - front and back.
  • Shoulder width
After working out my stitch and row gauge per inch, I went through Andi’s pattern for the section I was about to work on. I did not work it all out from start to end in one go. That would have been too boring but also it is better to do it in sections to check you are on track and to try it on as you go.
Using Andi's stitch and row gauge, and her schematic, I tried to work out the proportions. For example I worked out that her button band was about 1.3 inches wide.  I tried to work out where her neckline shaping started and so on. I then adapted these proportions to my measurements.
The decreases for the neckline were tricky to work out. I used an on-line knitting decrease calendar to help me in places. I then worked out the decreases for the bust to the waist, worked out how many under arm stitches to cast on and so on.


I had  had a lot of help from these sources:

By Gum By Golly (Tasha) - tutorial on drafting your own knitted set in sleeve. 

Paula Ward - You Tube Videos on designing your own knitted sweater, in particular the Sleeve Cap videos in two parts. 

Barbara G Walker - Knitting from the Top - seamless set in sleeve instructions.

There were some great tips on all three sources and I have used something from each one. For example:

Barbara G Walker 

You measure your upper arm to determine the amount of stitches you need for your sleeve circumference. To determine the rate at which you pick up you need to count the number of rows on your armholes from the main body. (This is after subtracting the number of under arm stitches you cast on because you always pick those up at the rate of 1 stitch for every one cast on.) This gave me a rate of picking up 1 stitch for every other row on the armhole. It could have been two for every three, four for every five and so on.

Paula Ward 

She instructed you NOT to leave a gap in the pick up rate of more than two stitches. This will leave a gap in the armhole. Even if this means you are picking up too many, don’t worry, you can reduce down later. For example do not pick up two and skip two stitches. Instead you can pick up two and skip one stitch.

By Gum By Golly 

I finished my short row shaping for the sleeve cap at the point that I started my armhole shaping. On Barbara Walker’s method you continued this until the under arm stitches. I went with By Gum By Golly’s method as I thought this would produce a snugger fit.

Knitting the Body

I changed to a 4.5 mm needle to knit the waist ribbing. After doing 8 rows of ribbing as per the pattern I kept the waistline stitches on a holder until after I had finished the sleeves. This made it easier to lengthen later after the sleeves if I wanted to. I ended up doing 13 rows of ribbing to match the ribbing on the sleeves.

Short rows

For all my short rows I use the German short row method. You need to adapt the pattern slightly to do it. I use two videos which explain how to do them and how to to adjust a wrap and turn short row pattern direction to German short rows (see here and here).

Bust short row shaping

I added some short row shaping at the bust. It sounds fancy but I just added a few more rows in the front portions only to accommodate the bust. I only added two rows in case it looked odd. Next time I may be a bit more fearless in adding more short rows. The cardigan when worn is slightly shorter at the front than the back.

Bind offs
I used the 2 x 2 sewn bind off to bind off the ribbing at the arms and the waist using this video this video.


I used the horizontal buttonhole method to do the buttonholes (see link). I also used this excellent video for the horizontal buttonhole method. I like the tip to use the purl cable cast on when working the buttonholes. 

My buttonholes were 3 stitches wide and my actual buttons 18 mm. I used this buttonhole calculator which worked out my buttonhole spacing.

When planning the spacing for my buttonholes I had the top button at the full bust point. I have noticed on finished objects for this pattern that this top button seems to be high. Mine also come out high despite trying to be careful. It may be better to allow for the top button to be slightly lower than the full bust point. The cardigan looks fine with 4 buttons closed though.

Button Bands

I did 11 rows of the button band in a smaller needle, 4.5 mm needle. (The pattern has 8 rows on a 5 mm needle.)

I used button band tips from Gail in her knitalong posts for the Miette. I picked up a whopping 205 stitches using a pick up rate of picking up 3 stitches for every 4 rows. (To put this in perspective, the medium size on the pattern has you pick up 182 stitches and I believe my cardigan may have ended up more cropped than the pattern.) I then decreased 1 stitch at the neck in the first row so my ribbing pattern would work. I changed the ribbing pattern so that on the right side there were 3 knit stitches at the very bottom of each side of the bands. In the pattern the bands end on both sides with 2 purl stitches.

I also twisted the first row of the button band. I did an ordinary bind in pattern off for the button bands.

I have re-inforced both sides of the button bands with lining and interfacing strips. I used the sewing machine to add buttonholes and I sewed on the buttons using the machine. I also did these bands on my Agatha and I explain how I did it in this post. 

I hope to be back soon with some of my other finished knitted projects.

Wednesday, 16 July 2014


The Agatha was my second sweater and my first Andi Satterland pattern. Her patterns were a major factor for me in deciding to take up knitting. I used to watch from the sidelines as lovely sweaters were being made while resigning myself to a future of lame ready to wear. Now I can join in the cropped cardi and floaty dress combo whenever I want. I'm so easily pleased!

Anywhere here are some photos. It was super hot today so the cardigan was off as soon as the photos were taken.  

The details:

Pattern: Agatha by Andi Satterland.

Yarn: Cascade 220, sunflower (2415 colourway).

Needles: 4.5 mm for the body, 4 mm for the cuffs and button bands.

Cast on: 5 April 2014.

Finished: 31 May 2014.

I love the construction of this sweater. After knitting seamless sweaters I am not sure I would want to knit flat and seam (or why anyone would).

I wouldn't say the sweater was hard but you do need to keep your wits about you. I had read that people had to rip back because they lost track of their rows on the lace panels. My method of knitting from a pattern so far has been to cut and paste the text from the PDF pattern into a Word document and then to write out all the rows. So for example if the pattern says, repeat the previous 2 rows 8 times, I would write them out that number of times (sometimes with increases or whatever). This takes extra time but I don't mind because it means as soon as I complete a row I write “done” next to it on my document. For the Agatha this meant writing out all the lace panel rows I needed in a particular row into each row on my Word document. There was no flipping back and forth to separate charts for me. I wanted everything I needed for the row in one place. I wasn't about to rely on a post-it note to keep my place in the charts, particularly since there were 7 lace charts to follow when knitting the joined body.

I was surprised the pattern didn't call for stitch markers at each lace panel. I had stitch markers around all my lace panels. I just use scraps of yarn tied into small circles for my place markers. I can't stand trying to knit with those plastic stitch markers.

The Agatha is mainly straightforward between the lace panels, with relatively mindless ribbing and the odd increase / decrease here and there. When I reached the stitch markers I would pay more attention to following the lace pattern. I would also regularly count the stitches between my lace panel markers. Sometimes the counts were off, usually because I was missing a yarn over. This is easy to add in when I next come to it by just lifting the yarn between the stitches. I soon learned to “read” the lace stitches which was really helpful when trying to see where I had gone wrong in dropping a stitch. For example the ssk's and k2 and k3 tog's are easy to recognise. It's important to learn how to do this as you cannot keep undoing your work every time you miss a stitch. You at least have to try and work it out and rip out only if all else fails and you can't bear to continue knowing there's an error there. As I said, with me it was mostly leaving off the yarnovers so no major problems fixing.

The lovely thing about knitting a popular pattern is reading the notes of those who have made the pattern. Here are some of the tips I used.

From Johanna at Making It Well. I followed her link for a stretchy sewn bind off. She linked to this video. I also found this 2007 blog tutorial which seems to be the same. I now use this bind off all the time. I follow the blog tutorial now rather than watching the video.

From Gail at Today's Agenda there are lots of useful tips on her Miette knit along posts. I used her tips for the button bands. Firstly I knit them with a smaller needle. I also twisted the first row of stitches after the pick up row (ie by knitting and purling the picked up stitches through the back loop). Lastly I picked up at the rate of 2 stitches for every 3 without worrying about how many the pattern said. Funnily enough I ended up with the same amount as required by the pattern.

I followed Lladybird's lead and re-inforced both button bands. When I did my Agatha Lladybird had not yet written up her tutorial for doing this so I kind of winged it. I couldn't find any suitable ribbon so I used sew in interfacing the size of my button bands, less about an eight of an inch all the way around so it wouldn't peek onto the right side. (You can also use iron-on interfacing). I then used a lining fabric in my stash and cut it 1 cm bigger than my interfacing strip all around. I then ironed over the 1 cm hem on all sides and then stitched the strip to the button side of my button band with tiny stitches. With my button hole side I pinned the interfacing strip to my button band and then marked where I needed to sew the buttonholes. I then machined button holes on the interfaced strip. If there is one tip I can give here, it is to make the machine buttonhole slightly bigger that the buttonhole on your cardigan. This is because when I came to attaching the strip to my cardigan and matching up, it wasn't completely accurate on some and I had to cut into the bar tack of the button hole to enable my button to fit in. I also started to hand stitch my machined buttonholes to my cardigan buttonholes but this didn't work out so I left them loose. I noticed that Lladybird's tutorial also leaves them loose.

One thing I changed in the pattern was the buttonholes. The pattern calls for eyelet buttonholes. I was concerned they wouldn't be very strong. After a lot of reading up and watching tutorials I settled on using the one-row horizontal buttonhole using this tutorial on how to do a variety of buttonholes. I also followed this You Tube tutorial which has a good tip for using the purl cable cast on instead of the knit cable cast on for this type of buttonhole.

Gail from Today's Agenda also linked to this brilliant buttonhole calculator which I used to calculate the spacing in my buttonholes.

I made the button band wider. I did about 9 rows instead of 5. I also did 9 buttons instead of 7.

I did the medium size which has an inch of positive ease in the bust. The cardigan is slightly more slouchy than intended but I'm not too worried about that. I will embrace the Andi Satterland negative ease a bit more in a future project. Inexplicably the pattern came out longer than the schemeatic even though my gauge was correct and I followed the pattern.

If I were to make the pattern again with negative ease I would have to make the body smaller and use the same size sleeves / armholes. The sleeves and armholes are nice and snug on the medium so would be too small if I were to knit the small. I will have to learn to modify patterns at some point.

I think that is about all I can say. There is the odd error here and there in the pattern. Some of them are noted in the Ravelry comments on the pattern. Also look at the forum posts on the pattern on Ravelry (a couple of which were started by me when I became stuck on the sleeves, which turned out to be an error in the pattern).

Andi is brilliant in replying to comments. I messaged her a few times on Ravelry. Mostly she replied instantly and I never had to wait more than a day for a reply.

I'm wearing the Agatha with my Rooibos dress which goes really well with it.  It's funny that I'm having to think really carefully about future hand sewn clothes to ensure they will also go with my hand knits.  I don't have a lot to wear with my Agatha at the moment.  I haven't worn leggings for ages but I've discovered the Agatha looks good with leggings and a floaty ready to wear tunic that I have. 

I have just finished the Myrna. It is blocking at the moment and I want to re-inforce the button bands again so it may be another couple of weeks until that is finished.

Still no sewing. I tried to join in the Untangling Knots Outfit Along but I had terrible problems with my muslins. I tried the Anna dress and the Ava dress and for both the bodices came out too short. I have therefore left sewing for a bit and will remember to measure before I cut a muslin in future! The Outfit Along has turned into the Myrna Along for me but never mind.

Happy sewing and knitting.

Saturday, 7 June 2014

January Cropped Sweater

After finishing my first knitting project following a pattern surely my goal of hand knitted sweater and cardi goodness was a step nearer? I'm pleased to say that it was. I have now even conquered the giddy heights of an Andi Satterland pattern but for now I give you my first hand knitted sweater. Here are the pictures taken today.

I used the January Cropped Sweater pattern from Tara Miller. It's a free pattern and I made the medium. I used the recommended yarn, King Cole Magnum lightweight chunky, 75% acrylic, 25% wool.

I learned so much making this sweater. The pattern unfortunately had loads of errors (with stitch counts being wrong and the like) so I had to re-write the numbers on most of it.

The pattern recommends 8 mm needles for the neckline and body. I used 6.5 mm needles for the neckline (as well as for all the ribbing as the pattern recommends). It's a top down sweater so you start with the neckline. My rookie errors are laughable now. I tried to cast on and knit the neckline on a 21 inch circular needle. Not surprisingly I didn't get very far. After a lot of swearing and frustration I posted a question on Ravelry. The only solution I could think of was buying double pointed needles.

I got a few responses from Ravelry members, such as knitting the neckline flat and seaming it later. A few posts in one lady nonchalantly suggested I look at the travelling loop or magic loop methods. Magic what? Well that lovely lady saved my sanity. A couple of You Tube videos later my project was saved! I am also a magic loop convert and have used the method over double pointed needles for sleeves ever since.

This sweater knitted up really fast, despite all the errors in the pattern and thinking time that went with it. I cast on on 8 March 2014 and it was finished and blocked by 29 March 2014.

I love the sweater and despite the problems with the pattern I think it was a good pattern for a beginner. The bias detail on the sleeves made the project interesting. The bind off for the body recommended Jenny's surprisingly stretch bind off. I love the method. As the name suggests, it really is stretchy, perfect for a sweater. I liked it so much that I used it for the sleeves. I don't think it was a great idea for the sleeves. My wrists are small, the sleeves are a tad big, so I didn't really need a stretchy bind off. It has added an interesting fluted detail to the sleeves. If I were to make the sweater again I would make the arms narrower and use a normal bind off.

My knitting addiction continues. I have just finished a cardigan and I am currently knitting the Myrna from Andi Satterland. The only downside is that my sewing is suffering. I can only sew at the weekends and it has been hard tearing myself away from the knitting.

I hope I can get photos of my second sweater soon.

See you soon.

Saturday, 22 March 2014

Broad Street Mittens

Long breaks between blogs is getting to be the norm around here. I'm still living in London during the week and back in Norfolk at the weekends. This means that I can't sew during the week.

Instead of buying patterns during the week and dreaming up what to sew (which I was doing a lot of) I decided to use my time more productively. I finally got around to learning to knit properly. By that I mean I no longer look at written pattern and say:

  1. “What the ….??” after the first few rows of ribbing;
  2. “Why does knitting have to be so damn complicated”.
  3. “Why can't they write the patterns in plain English rather than in stupid codes”
With a lot of help from the internet, my knitting book and Ravelry I now understand the “codes”. Sorry for calling your codes stupid knitting designers. I now know that they're not at all stupid. Once you have taken the time to understand them they are stupidly simple!

My first project reading a pattern was the Broad Street mittens by Janis Cortese. This is a free pattern from and also appears on Ravelry. (I tell a lie – my first knitting project reading a pattern was at aged 11 when clever me somehow managed to knit dolls with hair and everything).

There are a few errors in the pattern and I had a lot of help reading this forum post and this Ravelry finished project post.

I also watched on You Tube, in full, a series of videos about knitting gloves in the round. Although the pattern I used was slightly different, I learned from the video how to knit in the round and how to knit the fingers. I also learned how to pick up the stitches when knitting the fingers, including adding one stitch to join with the next stitch when knitting in the round. One great thing about knitting stocking stitch in the round is that it eliminates the need for purl rows as you are always facing a knit row.

In hindsight it was a challenging pattern to start off with. I would say that if you can get past this pattern you are totally ready to knit a sweater. It's not a great leap to turn a glove upside down and understand how a top-down sweater is knitted. The wrist of the glove is similar to the neck and the thumb of the glove is similar to how a sleeve is knitted. Knitting a sweater is exactly what I'm working on now. I'm nearing the end of the second sleeve and I can't wait to show you.

Anyway here are some pictures of my gloves:

Here are the details.


2 x 50g balls of Patons Madella, 83% acrylic, 17% wool. (From my stash)

Changes to the pattern / Clarification of pattern instructions / Corrections to the pattern

Swatch / Needle size

I did a swatch with the recommended needle size but the fabric produced came out way to big (it's supposed to be 28 stitches to 4 inches in stocking stitch. I reduced my needles to a 2.75 mm needles, made another swatch and this came out fine.

The pattern didn't tell you to use a smaller needle for the cuff and the ribbing on the mitten cap. On the second glove I used a smaller needle for these sections. I preferred the look of the tighter cuff and ribbing on the second glove.

Thumb Increases

The thumb increase on the Broadstreet mitten is unusual in that the increases only happen on one side of the thumb. This means there is no “increase line” showing at the front of the glove. The “increase line” is on the palm side of the glove, supposedly where it will be seen less.

The pattern uses four double pointed needles, two for the palm and two for the back of the hand. From reading Ravelry and other notes about the pattern there was some confusion about the thumb gusset increase.

For the thumb increase (on the left hand) you need to purl in the same place on the second needle and then do your make one increases after that on the second needle until you have 12 stitches. Therefore on the second needle on every other row:

K 13, purl 1, make 1 (twisted), knit to the end of the row (end of the row being the end of the 4th needle where the tail end is.

Then on the normal (non-increased) row in between the increase rows it is just knit all the way round the row to the tail end except on the second needle it is:

K13, purl 1, knit to end of needle.

I'm not sure I was doing the twisted make 1 correctly. The You tube video I found just seemed to be the normal make 1, which I used.

Cast on after separating thumb

After finishing the thumb increases you had to knit around to the end of the second needle (ie at stitch 13 and just before the 14 stitches thumb stitches put on a holder) and then cast on 11 stitches. I did this by turning my work the wrong side (so the purl stitches facing me) and adding the using the cable cast on method.

Pinky finger

After knitting up to where the pinky finger starts, the pattern instructions were a bit sparse. Luckily I had already watched the glove knitting videos linked above so I knew what to do. I wrote out the following instructions to fill in the gaps in the pattern instructions at this point:

  1. After putting the 3 middle finger stitches on a holder the pattern tells you to cast on one stitch on the ring finger side. However the tail end side of the work where you are starting from is on the other side, so you have to knit up to this point and then cast on one stitch. I used the cable cast on again.

  1. The pattern didn't tell you to knit two stitches together from the two sections like it did for the thumb cast on stitches. I therefore cast on an extra stitch (so two cast on stitches instead of one) and knit the extra stitch together with the first stitch from the back of the hand pinky.
  2. The pattern didn't tell you to transfer the pinky stitches onto more than one double pointed needle. I found I couldn't knit with just two double pointed needle so I transferred my stitches onto 4 double pointed needles. (With so many needles I felt a bit like Edward Scissorhands at this point).

Middle and ring finger

Instead of picking up 2 stitches from the base of the ring finger (as in the pattern) I picked up 5. I reduced the 5 to 3 on the next round and then the 3 to 2 on the following round. This worked because there are no holes between the fingers. I also cast on an extra stitch on the opposite end of the 2 picked up stitches and then knit this with the first stitch on the needle holding the back of hand stitches. Again this prevents a hole appearing in your work.


The pattern said to pick up 12 stitches along the cast on edge (see “Cast on after separating thumb” above). This didn't seem enough to me. As I was concerned there would be gaps I picked up a stitch every couple of stitches and ended up picking up 17. I then knit one round and during this round I reduced the 17 picked up stitches to 12 and the followed the pattern instructions from there.

Mitten shell

I read on Ravelry that people had difficulty with the star decreases on the middle shell. There is a mistake in the pattern and there should be two decreases per needle instead of one.

I wrote out what I needed to knit and decrease on each of the 4 needles and the corrected decrease instructions are as follows:

Starting with 56 stitches in all, on each needle:

Decrease row 1:
k5, k2tog. Repeat. (48 stitches) (12 stitches per needle)
Rows 2 to 6:
K 5 rounds even.
Decrease row 7:
K4, k2tog on each needle. Repeat. (40 stitches) (10 stitches per needle)
Rows 8 to 11:
K 4 rounds even.
Decrease row 12:
K3, k2tog on each needle. Repeat. (32 stitches) (8 stitches per needle)
Rows 13 to 15:
K 3 rounds even.
Decrease row 16:
K2, k2tog on each needle. Repeat. (24 stitches) (6 stitches per needle)
Rows 17 to 18:
K 2 rounds even.
Decrease row 19: K1, k2tog on each needle. Repeat. (16 stitches) (4 stitches per needle)
Row 20:
K 1 round even.
Decrease row 21:
K2tog on each needle. Repeat. (8 stitches) (2 stitches per needle)
Row 21A: K 1 round even (my addition)
Row 22: K2tog x 4 (4 stitches)
Row 23: K 2 inches of I-cord on these 4 stitches.

To start the mitten cap, after knitting the ribbing for the mitten cap, you had to pick up 30 stitches across the mitten. The only way I could see to do this was to pick up the second leg of each of the 30 knuckle stitches onto two needles.

Right hand glove instructions

As mentioned above there are no instructions for the right hand. The only differences between the left and the right hand are the thumb increases and thumb decreases.

My notes for the right hand thumb increases are set out below.

For the thumb increase you need to purl in the same place on the third needle and then do your make one increases before that on the third needle until you have 12. Therefore on the third needle on every other row:

Work out where the increases will be on needle 3 by either: noting where you need to purl by looking to see which stitch is purled on the previous row; or counting back from the end of needle 3 the stitches that will be the K 13, purl 1. K up to just before where the purl 1 will be, M1 (twisted), purl, knit to the end of the row (end of the row being the end of the 4th needle where the tail end is).

Then on the normal (non-increased) row in between the increase rows (as above) it is just knit all the way round the row to the tail end except on the third needle it is:

Work out where the purl will be by either: noting where you need to purl by looking to see which stitch is purled on the previous row; or counting back from the end of needle 3 the stitches that will be the K13, purl 1. K up to where your purl needs to go, purl, K to the end of the row.

My notes for the right hand thumb decreases are set out below.

After finishing the increases you have to knit around to the end of needle 2 (ie K 15) and then cast on 11 stitches onto needle 2. At the start of the third needle, after the 14 stitches are put on a holder, there should be 13 stitches left. With the 11th added stitch on needle 2 you join it with the first stitch on the third needle to close up the thumb hole.

Loose bind off for the fingers

When the pattern said “bind off loosely” for the fingers, I thought that meant just don't pull it too tight. I used the ordinary bind off for the first glove. After searching the term on You Tube I found that it is a different method of bind off using purl stitch and wrapping the yarn around the needle clockwise instead of anti-clockwise. Unsurprisingly my bind off has come out much better on the second glove.


The mitten shell has a length of i-cord at the tip for the button hole. By the time I came to my second glove I had read a tip about knitting the i-cord with a smaller needle to make it tighter. I did this and although it was difficult to knit the first few rows it has definitely came out tighter. I preferred the tighter look on the i-cord for the second glove.

I blocked my gloves and then they were ready to wear. It took me a while to get around to sewing the button on. This step was worthwhile as the mitten shells flap around when they are worn off the hand. How cute is the mitten shell? When worn off the hand they're like cute little beanies!

Overall I am really pleased with my mittens and I have worn them a lot at the weekend. They're really cosy and warm!

Now at the weekends I have to force myself to do some sewing! Hope to be back soon with my finished sweater and an easy sewing project I've finished.

Happy sewing (and knitting)!