I've just finished my second make of the Miss Chalmers' skirt from Papercut patterns. Here are the photos.
As with my first make of this skirt in denim I added slash pockets and a welt pocket at the back. I used this royal blue fabric that I bought from the retired seamstress. I don't know what the fabric is. All I can say is I think it's man made and it's not particularly soft. This isn't a colour I would normally choose but I really like it. One good thing about buying a job lot of fabric from a retired seamstress (as you do) is the chance to wear colours you wouldn't normally wear.
I used a similar coloured topstitching thread and topstitched all the edges including the side seams and the hem edge. I also lined the skirt as with the first make. I used a stiffer interfacing on this one which I like because it gives the skirt some structure. I normally use the interfaced part as the facing rather than the front piece but I forgot to do this. I didn't do a great job with ironing on the interfacing so this shows on the front of the skirt. I'll have to remember this next time.
The welt pocket has not come out as good as the denim version. This fabric does not fold and press well and is less pliable than a natural fibre. Interfacing the welt pocket piece to give it more structure would be a good idea if I do this again. The topstitching around the welt pocket wasn't good in the top right hand corner and I may unpick this part at some point to re-do.
I french seamed the slash pockets which I always do. However looking at the close up picture of the side of the skirt you can see that the bottom of the pocket shows through. A smooth lining fabric for the pocket may be a good idea for this style of skirt so it doesn't show through. I adapted the pocket pattern for the Crescent skirt to use on this skirt. The Crescent, unlike this one, is a fuller skirt so the pockets don't show through.
I just zig zagged the other seams. I didn't bother with the Hong Kong bound finish. It was a headache on my last make. This pattern has a 1 cm seam allowance included and I now realise you need at least a 1.5 cm seam allowance to comfortably do a bound seam finish.
As mentioned above the fabric does not cleanly press flat so I decided to interface the hem. I haven't done this before and it worked like a dream. I read around a bit before doing this. I can't find the tutorial I read now but I think it was on Kathleen Fansella's Fashion-Incubator site. It said that the interfacing should not end where the crease of the hem ends. It should extend beyond this at least half an inch. This is what I did and it worked like a dream. I blind stitched the hem on the machine and zig zagged the edge.
I went a bit wrong with the zipper. I didn't leave enough of a gap from the top of the zipper teeth to the edge. I normally leave the seam allowance plus 2 to 3 mm. I didn't even have enough for the seam allowance! Apart from this I was pleased with the zipper and one of the few that have come out invisible for me.
Overall I'm really pleased with my skirt and I can't wait to start wearing it.