Sunday, 7 April 2013

Tutorial: Hemming a Lined Skirt with a Placket



When making my first Wiksten skirt it took me a bit of time to figure out how to finish off the corners of the skirt and the lining at the hem. I used this tutorial from Fashion Incubator as a starting point. When I worked it out I took some photos as I went along. I then went the whole hog and turned it into my first proper tutorial.

I followed my tutorial when making my second Wiksten skirt and the corners came out fine. I even used it on my latest make to sew the corners of a vent on a lined skirt. I'm fairly confident it works so I thought I'd put it out there.

If you know of any other tutorials dealing with this area please provide a link in the comments. I'm always interested to read other ways of doing things.

So on with the tutorial. Firstly I have made it available as a PDF download here. Please let me know if the link doesn't work.

Just in case cloud storage disappears I have set out the tutorial in full below. The references to 1.5 cm below refer to the seam allowances used so this will change if you use a different seam allowance.




Hemming a lined skirt with a placket


This tutorial describes how to finish off the bottom corner of a lined skirt with a placket. The lining is loose rather than sewn into the hem.







The following steps should already be done.

The placket is attached to the outer skirt stopping just shy of 1.5 cm from the bottom of the placket. (Update: this is actually step 1 of the tutorial).

If you're topstitching the placket you can either do all the topstitching at the end or topstitch up to about 3 inches before the hem depth and do the rest at the end.

The lining is hemmed.

The hemmed lining is stitched to the placket facing.

The hemmed lining (with placket facing attached) is stitched to the outer skirt along the waist, down the length of the placket and halfway along the bottom of the placket. (Update: see step 1 for sewing the bottom of the placket). 

The outer skirt is hemmed stopping around 2.75 inches before the placket. (This gap can be smaller if your hem is shorter. My hem is 2.25 inches. The purpose of the gap is to leave enough room to finish off the placket).

Tip: I thread traced my seam allowance (using long basting stitches) on the bottom of the placket and placket facing in advance. I then used this thread traced line as the guide to hem my outer skirt as this line also marks the fold line for the hem.


Step 1 – start of tutorial

Sew the bottom edge of the placket, stopping just shy of the finished width of the placket. In my case I stopped 1.5 cm from the edge, being the seam allowance. Don't sew all the way to the edge. (The stitching to the right in the picture below is the thread traced basting mentioned above). Use pins to move the rest of the fabric out of the way if necessary. Press.







View from the other side



Step 2

Preparing to turn through. I've been experimenting with Tilly and the Buttons' method (http://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2012/11/how-to-shape-sharp-corner.html) of not cutting the corners diagonally before turning through. I graded my seam allowances and then pressed them towards the back of the skirt (ie towards side with the lining attached). Alternatively you can trim the corners.

After turning through, press.

Step 3

Tack together all the seam allowances that meet at the bottom edge of the placket and the bottom edge of the outer skirt.

In the next photo I've put a white headed pin in the seams I'm going to tack together. I tacked using a small zig zag stitch, lowering the feed dogs and doing a few stitches. This can also be done by hand







Bonus photo: not in the PDF download


Step 4

Fold the lining back onto the placket facing, right sides together. Loosely tack the lining onto the placket facing just to keep it out of the way.





 On the right is the the part of the hem of the outer skirt not yet stitched down

Step 5

This is where it's important to have a bit of the outer skirt un-hemmed before the placket as mentioned at start of the tutorial.

Stitch the side of the outer skirt hem to the side of the placket facing, right sides together. In the photo below I have pinned where I will sew, with a 1.5 cm seam allowance. You can also see my tacking in this picture from step 3, on the left of the picture next to the red headed pin. To the left of the picture you can also see the stitching from the long seam that joins the placket and outer skirt.









This isn't the easiest part to sew by machine but it can be done. Here is a picture of the work in my machine before sewing. That green pin at the back was there to keep the fabric out of the way.








Step 6

Press the seam allowance of the placket facing and hem towards the placket. In the photo below you can see where I've tacked the seam allowances at step 3. Again using Tilly and the Buttons' method (http://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2012/11/how-to-shape-sharp-corner.html) I haven't cut diagonally along the corners. If you want to you can undo the tacking and trim away those corners. Turn through.





Step 7

Finish / complete any topstitching on the placket.









Step 8


Hand stitch the rest of the hem on the outer skirt. (You can't see the top of the hem in this picture as it's underneath the lining).







4 comments:

  1. Definitely bookmarking this for later! Thanks for sharing!

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  2. Ahh, I think this looks useful. I think you are a great tutorial writer because you are detail oriented. Yay, well done! Now I have to make a lined skirt with a placket to try it out, lol! :)

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    Replies
    1. Yay - glad you like it! Let me know if you have any problems following it.

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