Sunday, 24 July 2011

Burda T-Shirt

I have just finished a white T-shirt.  Here are the photos:

I used pattern number 120 from the June 2011 issue of Burda.   I looked for some stretchy velour fabric like the one in the Burda picture but couldn't find any.  I used an ivory cotton jersey, a slightly off-white colour.  I thought the jersey was too thin so I underlined the front and back pieces with another layer of the same fabric.   The jersey rolled up at every cut edge so this made underlining and hemming fiddly.

The top has a zip and an interfaced facing so it is more of a top than a t-shirt.

As usual I had a few mishaps along the way. I attached the back facings to the front facings the wrong way around and only noticed when I attached it to the neckline. I was tempted for about 2 seconds to leave it but it looked totally wrong.  I also noticed the back facing seemed to be too small so I cut them out again.  I attached them the right way and the facings were still too small. If I make the top again I think I will leave cutting out the facings until I have the top constructed so I can fit the facing pieces on the actual top and adjust accordingly.

I then attached the facing and topstitched the neckline 3 cm from the neck edge like the pattern recommends.  This was so difficult to do in this fabric.  It kept puckering up and the finished result was awful. I unpicked the topstitching and the facing and started again.  This time it was much better, and I top-stitched 2.5 cm from the neck edge.  

This was also my first time using Vilene bias tape.  I've come across this in Burda patterns before and ignored it as I wasn't sure what it was.  I couldn't find anything on-line about it.  My Vogue sewing book had a section on it - essentially it is to strengthen areas that stretch a lot.  You simply iron it onto the wrong side of the fabric on areas such as the arm holes and shoulders. You have to stitch through it so make sure you iron it over your stitching line.  It's like iron-on interfacing but much finer.  It's great stuff and makes the fabric really easy to sew.  My sleeves are a single layer of this very thin jersey fabric.  I had real problems sewing the sleeve seam and so I put some of this tape on the seam and had no more problems.

I'm wearing my top with my Jade crescent skirt.  Excuse the creases in it - I had a 4 hour car journey in it today and then I've been sewing in it.

I also made a muslin for this top and the only alteration I made was to lengthen the top by 1 inch.

I now have some stretchy white velour fabric so  I am going to make the pattern again.  I hope I'll have an easier ride this time without curling edges and fiddly underlining.  I won't be underlining jersey with jersey fabric again.  It's way too fiddly and the result isn't terribly comfortable.

Happy sewing.

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