Nearly two years after re-discovering
my sewing machine I've made my first coat! Here's the long awaited
Minoru jacket. First things first – the photos:
This jacket has exceeded all
expectations. It might be my favourite make to date. Scratch that –
the best jacket I've ever owned would be more accurate.
I was delighted to find the pattern
was bigger than I thought. Some of versions I've seen look small so I
was expecting to have to make it bigger.
I'm not sure why it's taken me so long
to start making it. I bought the pattern in October 2011 when it
first came out and the fabric in December. Tasia has released four
patterns since then and I've made two of them. Luckily she wasn't
relying on me to test the pattern!
The procrastination was due to being
distracted with other makes, thinking it would take ages and general
nerves about tackling such a big project. The pattern was really
enjoyable though. It's fairly easy to make up but challenging and
fiddly in places with a lot of new techniques.
I took my time and accepted I was going
to be a while. I started around 20 July 2012 so it's taken 4 weeks
altogether.
This is going to be a long post because
I want to write down as much of the detail as I can remember as an
aide-memoire for future makes. I definitely want another Minoru
jacket.
Pattern
The Minoru jacket from Sewaholic patterns. I cut
a size above my own. I need to be able to wear lots of layers
underneath in the winter and slip it on and off easily. I hate coats
that are too small!
Fabric
I bought the fabric from Ikea in
December 2011. Frustrating moment when I walked the mile and a half
to the checkout to find that I had to go back to get it weighed and
labelled! I'm not sure what the fabric is but I would guess it's
cotton canvas, which is one of the recommended fabrics for the
pattern. The fabric is quite stiff but I've put a soft lining in so
I'm not worried about that.
I was a bit concerned last year that I
wasn't going to find a suitable fabric. I went to Goldhawk Road in
November 2011 and couldn't find any cotton canvas. When I asked I was
shown a cream, really thick canvas – fine if I wanted to make a
tent! The young lad was quite pushy and I think he got a bit annoyed
when I wasn't interested. He then asked me how much fabric I wanted
after saying I didn't want it! The assistants in the other shops were
fine though.
Notions
32 inch zipper. The pattern says 30
inches for my size but when I made up the muslin I wanted it to be
the length of the un-hemmed original, so I added 2 inches. I
therefore needed to buy a longer zip. I couldn't find one over 30
inches in store so I ordered this on-line. This is a YKK plastic
zipper. I wanted a completely black zip so I went with this, even
though the metal ones are better quality. I bought an 18 inch normal
zipper for the hood.
Muslin
I made up a muslin as per the pattern.
Apart from adding 2 inches to the length the only other change was to
add 1 cm to the pieces above the waist. This meant tedious
alterations to the front and back pieces, the lining pieces and the plackets. I traced out my pattern.
It took me about 2 days to do the tracing and cutting and another 2
days to do all the cutting. So many pieces! Even then there were
pieces I forgot to do and had to go back, such as the lining for the
collar.
Topstitching
I didn't want to use a contrasting
thread, but I bought a topstitching thread in black. I did double
rows of topstitching, rather than a single row used in the pattern.
The topstitching thread was fine until it came to the areas where the
bobbin thread would be visible on the jacket. I'm talking about the
top of the collar, where the placket meets the zipper teeth and the
hem. I used normal thread in the bobbin but the tension was not right
on the reverse side even after testing all the settings. It looks
fine on the top side but a mess underneath. This was not a problem in
the areas that would be enclosed in the lining. After putting in so
much effort I didn't want messy stitching to show if the collar was
turned down or when the jacket was worn open. After unsuccessfully
trying to work around this I changed to normal top thread for these
areas. It looks fine and hardly notices. I was glad I hadn't used a
contrasting thread.
Collar
I used a bright orange slippery fabric
that I have in my stash for the lining. I'm not sure what it is. The outer collar
piece with the zip opening is lined. However some of the bright
orange peeks out around the zip. Next time I'll use a collar lining
that matches the fabric so the peeks will be less noticeable.
I decided to interface the area where
the zip goes (which is not done in the pattern) as I thought the area
might get a lot of pull. It's worked out well but I had trouble
sewing this area. I can't remember if it was the lining fabric or the
interfacing but one of them kept getting caught in the feed dogs and
tangling the thread. After cutting my way out about five times I cut
strips of tracing paper and pinned them underneath and sewed over the
paper. I was relieved to find this worked and so I ripped out the
paper when I was finished.
Hood
I lined the hood, using a black lining
rather than the orange. Others have commented on the neckline seams
(or lower collar seams) that show through when the hood is hanging
down. This is true. I zig-zagged my seams so it's a bit tidier. I
suppose a Hong Kong finish could be added to those edges before they
are joined together but this might add further bulk and there are
enough layers to sew through as it is!
Inside pockets
I sewed mine on as patch pockets. This
was only because I forget to leave one edge un-hemmed so that it
could be sewn into the placket. I'm annoyed at forgetting this! I
sewed on a longer bit of velcro but it was totally unnecessary. It's
difficult to open and I don't like the idea of tugging it open at the
lining.
Elasticated waist.
I shortened the elasticated areas on
the front of the jacket, so the entire back is elasticated and about
2 inches from the side of each front piece. I liked the straight
lines at the front and I didn't want a longer elasticated waist to
interfere too much. I didn't change the bobbin thread to orange when
sewing the casing. The black thread shows on the lining but it kind
of works because the inside pockets and the inside plackets are
black.
Stitch in the ditch
This came out really well on the top
side but I admire anyone who manages to stitch exactly in the ditch
on both sides. My stitching has run into the lining. This is probably
easier to do with a thinner fabric.
Hem
I did the hem differently to the
pattern. I used this method from Fashion Incubator. It doesn't work quite as it does in the
tutorial with the topstitching in the plackets already in place but I
managed to machine stitch most of the corners. I had to leave a small
gap in the lining at the back of the hem so I would have something to
turn through. I then slip stitched that down after machine stitching
what I could. I don't know how they deal with this in ready to wear.
I also interfaced the hem area.
Update: I've just read my Threads sewing book to see how they do jacket linings. That gap you need to turn through? They leave a six inch gap in the side seam of the lining. That gap is either hand or machine stitched closed after stitching the neckline, sides, hem and sleeve edges, after turning through. I should remember to read my books before the make!
Casing
Update: When laying the two layers wrong sides together to sew the casing for the elasticated waist I found it helpful to pin the two layers together at the top of the side seams first, then just above and then below where the casing will be. Then smooth out the layers to pin the rest as in the pattern and sew-along instructions. Then you know your side seams will match up when you sew the casing.
Update: I've just read my Threads sewing book to see how they do jacket linings. That gap you need to turn through? They leave a six inch gap in the side seam of the lining. That gap is either hand or machine stitched closed after stitching the neckline, sides, hem and sleeve edges, after turning through. I should remember to read my books before the make!
Casing
Update: When laying the two layers wrong sides together to sew the casing for the elasticated waist I found it helpful to pin the two layers together at the top of the side seams first, then just above and then below where the casing will be. Then smooth out the layers to pin the rest as in the pattern and sew-along instructions. Then you know your side seams will match up when you sew the casing.
Pockets
I copied the design of the pockets from
my chap's parka. It's an expandable pocket with the expandable part
at one side and at the bottom. On the original the non-collapsable
side is sewn into a seam but I just stitched it down. I loosely
followed this tutorial for the construction of the pockets. The design of my pocket is
different in that there are two pattern pieces for the pocket, one
for the front of the pocket and a long strip the length of one side
and the bottom of the pocket.
I used at this tutorial for the flap part of the pocket. I added a little under flap to
the pocket which you can see in the close up above. The intention,
like the original I copied, was to put a metal snap in the under
flap, so the snap wouldn't be visible from the outside. I omitted
the snap in the end so the flap just hangs down.
I also lined the pocket and flap.
I think that's it. I'm delighted with
the jacket and can't wait to make another but I think I'll do
something a bit easier first.
Next up I think I'll do one of the
Megan Neilsen patterns I bought recently. I haven't decided whether
to do the Darling Ranges dress or the Banksia top as yet.
Happy sewing.
Wow, what a fab jacket! It's been really interesting reading your notes on making it, as this is on my list...determined to make some outerwear!! Yours looks so professional and I bet you'll get loads of wear from it. Good timing too, finishing it before you need it!
ReplyDeleteThanks Winnie! I look forward to seeing yours - it's a great jacket. I have the bad weather for most of this summer to thank for the timing. It was a great way to forget it and ironically it's been really hot since!
DeleteThis looks great! I love it! I can't wait to make it, although I'm still pretty nervous!
ReplyDeleteHi there girl. Thanks a lot! I can't wait to see yours - it'll be fantastic and you'll get loads of wear out of it. No need to be nervous - just take your time. Only start when you're feeling inspired though - took me a while to get there!
DeleteOoh it's so nice :) Well done! I don't have any plans for a Minoru but if I did I'd know where to get some great notes :)
ReplyDeleteThank you so much!
DeleteGreat coat! I love the orange lining! I procrastinated on my Minoru too - so much so that I haven't even worn it yet since it got warm right after I finished it. But I'm glad it's done too. Also, I know what you mean about the stitching in the ditch - same problem on the Cambie too. Tasia must be some kind of ditch-stitching wizard, cause I can never get my seams to line up exactly!
ReplyDeleteThank you! Your jacket is gorgeous. How frustrating not to have worn it yet! On skirt waistbands I usually make the back slightly longer to be able to stitch in the ditch. I should have done this with the Minoru. Oops I didn't stitch in the ditch on my Cambie but I would have had the same problem as you!
Deletehi there - wasn't sure where to post this message. I love you blog and have nominated you for some awards. here's the link:
ReplyDeletehttp://hugsandkissesclothing.wordpress.com/2012/08/20/not-one-not-two-but-three-awards-xxx/
I hope you enjoy them
Hannah xXx
That's made my day Hannah - thanks a lot!
DeleteOMG Katy, this is awesome... Love the jacket... Looks like professionally done and fits perfectly :::) well done Mike
ReplyDeleteOo thanks Mike - praise indeed from a jacket master such as yourself!
DeleteWhat a great job you did on this jacket! I wasn't sure it really was a Minoru at first. The small (or not 8-D) changes you made make it look just that little bit different. I especially like how you placed the elastic, and the pockets, I love them.
ReplyDeleteI am in the planning stages of my Minoru, so I am reading anything anyone has to say about sewing the pattern. Thank you for writing such a detailed post, it is much appreciated.
Thanks Elle C. I'm glad you like the jacket. I wear it all the time and I hope to get around to making a second one this year in blue (the same type of fabric). Thanks for pinning my jacket onto the Minoru jacket board - great to be included in the line up. I hope your jacket goes well.
DeleteWow, great-looking jacket! I appreciate your input on each of the construction stages, very organized and helpful:)
ReplyDeleteThanks Rikki B! I'm glad you found it helpful.
Delete