Saturday, 12 October 2013

Red Skater Dress

Skater dresses should be made compulsory. Here is mine!

This is possibly the nicest dress I've made, or at the very least up there with the likes of my Darling Ranges dresses.

The idea to make a skater dress came when I couldn't make the Hummingbird top work for me. I made a few muslins of the Hummingbird but decided to throw in the towel. I was still keen to make a knit and something peplum-y. Initially I was going to try and make a peplum top from the Renfrew but decided to go the whole hog and make a skater dress.

I made at least two muslins, possibly three. I started by tracing out my Renfrew bodice pieces, cutting it off at the waist and adding a seam allowance. I cut out a circle skirt. I was lazy and didn't follow any tutorials to calculate the waist circumference. I just guessed and of course it came out way too big. The skirt was gathered in to fit the waist.

After the first muslin I could see the style had potential but needed a lot of adjustments. I wanted my dress to go in at the waist, and the first muslin was more of a dropped waist. I also needed to cut out a lot more from bottom of the back bodice for it to hit at the waist, far more than I had to cut from the front. It took a bit of fiddling and adjusting to get the side seams to match. I also made the neckline higher than in the original pattern. One or two muslins later and I was happy.

This red fabric was only ever intended to be muslin fabric. My chap bought it at an auction. It's stretchy and has a waffly texture on the front, and a shiny knit like texture on the back. I have some blue fabric the same and I'm convinced the previous owner bought it to make Super Hero costumes. Despite that I really like the fabric. I usually avoid red because I've read that with my colouring I should steer clear, particularly next to my face. Well I'm happy to break the fashion rules.

I still refused to follow tutorials and winged the cutting of the circle skirt. The waist was smaller than the muslin but still too big. I had to gather the skirt again but I'm not worried. If anything this adds extra twirliness to the skirt. Speaking of which, how much fun is twirling around the living room in a circle skirt? I've never worn one of these things before so the novelty may take a while to wear off.

The dress was really easy to sew up. The top was sewn as per the Renfrew instructions but I did the neckband differently. I sewed it more like the Pendrell neckline but in reverse so the band shows on the right side. (The Pendrell neckband instructions are here.)

I serged my seams together with a zig zag stitch, including the waistline seam, after trimming them down to about 0.5 cm. I then pressed the waist seam up and edge stitched the seam from the front.

The only downside to making a circle skirt is hemming the damn thing. I tried to stitch the hem on my machine but it didn't like it one bit. The Superman fabric must be rubbery or something as it kept sticking to the needle. I didn't have this problem with any of the other seams. There was no alternative but to  hand stitch it. I used the blind catch stitch, which I learned from Gertie's book. The hem has come out really well. Despite moaning about hand stitching I have come to really enjoy it and I don't mind a bit of hand stitching in my makes every now and then.

I'm really pleased with the dress and I'm looking forward to wearing it. I wasn't thinking of a Christmas dress when I made it but it will be the perfect dress to wear at Christmas!

I've already cut out a second skater dress in the same fabric but blue (a great cobalt blue).

Happy sewing

Wednesday, 9 October 2013

Tutorial: Inserting Heavy Duty Snaps

This is the last of my Minoru jacket tutorials following my Royal Blue Minoru Jacket.

Before making this jacket I had never inserted snaps. I'll be fine, I thought. There's bound to be a tutorial on-line. If there was I wasn't able to find it. There were a few tutorials but with different snaps to those I was using. I started my practice attempts by, gasp, working it out for myself! The instructions on the tiny packet were minimal to say the least. My biggest problem was working out what part joined to what, and which way round.

On my first attempt I inserted the parts the wrong way round so, unsurprisingly, the snaps wouldn't close. I trawled the internet again to see if I could find a tutorial. The best I could find was a tutorial for adding snaps to home made nappies of all things. The tutorial was helpful in showing which way round to insert the parts so my second attempt was successful.

Another thing that put me off trying snaps was the misconception that special equipment was needed. If you're doing snaps a lot then specialist equipment makes the job easier but you totally don't need it. I just used the little tools that came with the snaps, a hard surface and a hammer.

This tutorial shows how I inserted the snaps on the storm flaps I made on the jacket. As the upper snaps were inside a hidden flap, they were awkward to insert to say the least. I suppose in ready to wear they insert the snaps before the plackets are sewn into the jacket. However I wanted to make sure the upper and lower snaps lined up correctly so I inserted my snaps at the very end.

Anyway enough talk, here's a reminder of the snaps, which gives you an idea of why they were awkward to insert.

The tutorial can be downloaded from this link. The link takes you to the Rapidshare home page. Click the blue download button and this takes you to the tutorial. Select the tutorial and click download. Unfortunately it is slow to download but you may be able to speed the process up if you sign up for a free Rapidshare storage account.

If you have any problems downloading or with the tutorial let me know.

Happy sewing.

Monday, 7 October 2013

Tutorial: Finishing the hem and plackets on the Minoru Jacket

UPDATE from 6 June 2014: My cloud storage has now changed from Rapidshare to Dropbox.  I have adjusted the links below to Dropbox.  Any problems let me know.  Katy.

This tutorial shows how I adapted my tutorial on hemming a lined skirt with a placket (seen here) to finish off the hem and lining on the Minoru jacket from Sewaholic Patterns. The main differences to that tutorial are the use of a hem facing and the hem is attached to the lining instead of free hanging.

The instructions to the Minoru jacket use a different method which you can see here.

Here is a picture of the inside of the jacket:

and of the finished jacket:

On my jacket I added storm flaps to the front of the jacket (tutorial here). That tutorial links to this one at the appropriate place. This tutorial works equally well without the storm flaps and with the zip plackets as per the original Minoru pattern. Just ignore the references to storm flaps as you will be finishing the zip plackets with no storm flaps added.

The tutorial can be downloaded from this link. The link takes you to Dropbox. Just click the download tab.

UPDATE on 6 June 2014: I tested the link today and it downloaded quickly for me, no more than 2 minutes. 

Happy sewing.

Saturday, 5 October 2013

French Hat Box Dress

Remember the rub-off experiment I wrote about way back in March this year? Well this is the second dress made from that. I finished this way back in April and for one reason or another I've only just got around to taking photos of it.

Anyway, better late that never as they say. Here are the photos.

Luckily I made notes of this make or I would never have remembered all this. I used the rub-off method to copy a Florence and Fred ready to wear dress. In my March post  I showed you the penultimate muslin and said I was going to make another one. I did this and the only change was to add a bit more length to the bodice.

While making the dress I noticed an error on the skirt part of the muslin I showed you. I added an extra pleat in the centre by mistake. There were 6 pleats and there should only be 5! That extra pleat led me down the path of making the skirt bigger as I mentioned in the post. So the skirt is bigger than it should be for a tulip style but it's not a major problem.

More inexplicable is the roomier bodice on the final version. I tried on the final muslin again and it was far more fitted. The changes I made to the length shouldn't have affected the width! I'm not too worried. It's a day dress, and the ease is needed to move about comfortably. If I make the dress again I'll do another muslin to figure out what happened to the bodice and take some ease out of the skirt.


This is a lovely cotton I bought from Hobbycraft. The fabric was called “French hat box” which I rather liked so that's the name of the dress.


I sorted out the lining fabric that came with the lot I bought from the old lady (which has gone down loads, especially for muslins). I removed all the lining and slippery fabric from their bolts into a plastic crate. There's some great fabric that can be used for lining, including this white one. It's a lovely soft fabric and feels great on the skin.

I did my usual method for inserting the lining based on Angela Kane's method which I talk about here. I under stitched and top stitched the neck and armhole seams (under stitching as far as as I could go – it's not possible to under stitch right up at the shoulders). I added strips of interfacing at the armholes for extra strength.

Stitching in the ditch

I stitched the lower edges of the neckbands together “in the ditch”. Don't under estimate the effect of this little step. It really does improve the look of the dress.


This was my first slot zipper using a regular zipper. I got loads of practice during the muslin stage using this excellent tutorial. My topstitching was about 3/8 inch from the centre of the zipper which I think produces a neater result than a smaller gap.

As my dress was lined I was going to have to do it slightly differently as the tutorial was not for a lined dress. I remembered that Kathleen Fansella's centred zipper technique was for a normal zipper with a facing. I used her method as usual and just topstitched around at the end, taking in the lining at the same time.

The zip came out better on this one that on my first make of this dress (which I have yet to blog). I thought about hand picking the top stitching but I didn't think it would be strong enough even though with this zip method the dress and lining are machine stitched to the zipper tape and then top stitched. The topstitching is vital as the zipper is visible otherwise. I didn't want hand picked top stitching coming undone and exposing the zipper.

This dress also marks the first time I have used Kathleen's centred zipper tutorial completely right! Despite always using her method I had been overlooking one small measurement which makes a huge difference to the final result.

I've mentioned before that Kathleen's method has the facings smaller. Instead of altering my facings (and lining) to make them smaller I have been “over hanging” the facing / lining unit about 0.5 mm beyond the corresponding shell pieces when attaching it to the zipper tape using Kathleen's method. It turns out I haven't been bold enough in the amount of over hang. It needs to over hang by 1.5 cm (if you're using a 1.5 cm seam allowances) to get the optimal effect. The method also reduces bulk at the top of the zip. I haven't trimmed the corners of the zip seams at all and but this makes no difference. (Kathleen trims the corners in her method but I'm still a fan of Tilly's method of not trimming corners).

Thank you as well to Kayotic Sewing of Gently Down The Seam as it was her comment on my post about zippers that got me thinking further about this. I have now updated my post on zippers here with this information. I have added a link there to a tutorial on Pattern Review that Kayotic Sewing referred me to which uses the over hang method.

The bottom of the zip where it joins onto the seam allowance of the dress and lining also came out really well and sits flat against the shell.

See that triangular shape at the bottom? That's the seam joining the bottom of the zipper tape to the lining.  It's at an angle as it starts at the lining seam at the bottom of the dress and has to taper out to meet the end of the line of stitching that attaches the zip to the lining.  I've never seen that explained anywhere like this.  It just came to me as I was making my first version of this dress and has worked nicely.


The dress I copied had a vent so I added one to his make.

I used Sunni's tutorials to draft the lining to the vent which I have linked to in my earlier post on vents. Instead of drafting new lining pieces I used the back skirt pattern piece (with vent) to cut out the lining and then chalked straight onto the fabric the extra ease that is needed at the hips and above the vent. I cut out the vent area on my lining pieces as per the outer shell. I then cut the vent lining down to size when I was ready to sew the vent lining to the outer shell, figuring out where I needed to cut. If you're doing this it's essential to chalk on to both sides of the lining and outer shell pieces the centre back seam line and all the seam lines around the vent. Remember to take into account and add seam allowances to the lining pieces. This is easy to forget. I know because I did it and had to re-cut the back lining piece. (By the way I didn't do Sunni's curve thing on the vent lining).

I adapted my own tutorial here to do the hem on the lining and the corners of the vent.

When sewing up the vent of this skirt I didn't follow any tutorials. Vents freak me out a bit so I wanted to see if I could overcome my fear by sewing it up intuitively. It took ages and a bit of un-picking here and there but it came out fine.

I started by sewing the centre back seam on the lining and dress up to about 2 inches above the vent area. I then chalked on all the seam lines on the vent and chalked in the centre back seam line, extending the chalked line right down to the hem edge (on both the shell and lining pieces). That centre back chalked seam line is valuable for lining up and folding the vent accurately.

I stay stitched with small stitches just inside where the seam line will be on all the critical corners of the vent, including the corner which meets the centre back seam. I did this on the lining and the shell pieces. You need to clip into these corners and so you can clip up to the stay stitching. I also added squares of interfacing in those corners. This is crucial if your fabric frays easily.

I stitched the vent intuitively starting from the long vertical edges of the vent. Where I wasn't sure I would leave a gap of about 1.5cm before the edge of the seam, turn though and then see what I would need to do next. This took some time but it enabled me to work out which bits needed to be clipped to make the vent work and why.


I made a hem facing for the skirt by tracing out pattern pieces from the bottom of the skirt pattern pieces and added seam allowances to the bottom and sides. I love how the hem facing has turned out. It's given a neat result and fits perfectly.    


I love the dress and wore it a lot over the summer, including to work. I'm a rub-off fan and will definitely be doing it again. In fact I bought a nice dress from H&M this summer that I want to rub off. The dress fits really well but has a high-low hem which I'm not keen on. How great that the rub-off method can let me create the dress again with a hem-line more suited to me!

Happy sewing

Tutorial: Storm Flaps

UPDATE from 6 June 2014: My cloud storage has now changed from Rapidshare to Dropbox.  I have adjusted the links below to Dropbox.  Any problems let me know.  Katy.

Hello all. I hope you're having a good Saturday whatever you're doing. I've taken a break from hemming a circle skirt to finish my tutorial on how I did the storm flaps on my Royal Blue Minoru jacket.

Here's a reminder of what they look like.

What are storm flaps? The best explanation I could find on-line is:

To prevent wind-driven rain from coming into the garment through button-holes or zipper teeth. If you're really out in the weather for an extending period, and are counting on the coat to keep you dry, they're somewhat important. Zippers aren't waterproof.”

Just the ticket for a winter Minoru!

As with my last tutorial the lined bellows pocket with a flap there are too many steps to insert into one blog post so it is available as a download for now. I use Dropbox for my cloud storage and you can download the tutorial here. The link takes you to Dropbox. Click the download tab. 

UPDATE on 6 June 2014: I tested the link today and it downloaded quickly for me, no more than 2 minutes.

I realise it would be better to have the tutorial available on the site. Now I have this page set up I might get around to adding all the steps to the end of this post on an ongoing basis and let you know in a separate post when it's ready. In the meantime the download will always be there!

Please let me know if you have any problems downloading it or with the tutorial.

Happy sewing!